After forty-seven hours of travel time, I have arrived in Kuwait. Originating in Denver and stopping in Washington DC, New York City, Amsterdam and finally Kuwait. The journey was made virtually unbearable by toothache which made tears stream down my cheeks for a good part of those forty-seven hours. I was able to access my checked luggage in New York City and took out a bottle of pain killers. But the Vicodin, Percoset and Tylenol with Codeine did little to numb the pain. They just made my stomach upset, and made it hard to walk.
Kuwait is the main point of transfer for U.S. soldiers and contract workers entering Iraq. It is not much to look at: a massive sea of beige sand, beige buildings and an often beige sky, thanks to the numerous sand storms. The military base, Ali Al Salem, is even worse: hundreds of beige tents and camo-netting, surrounded by airstrips and compounds.
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We arrive at the base late, and I beg whoever I can find to help me with my tooth. I am taken to an Army Colonel who, after about forty-five minutes of fierce tugging is able to pull the tooth out. Now I have a huge hole in my mouth, but the pain is gone so it seems to be a fair trade. It is time to play the waiting game. I show up several times a day at ungodly hours for info. on flights into Iraq. Plans get changed often due to sandstorms and other reasons; one of which, I believe, is to remain inconsistent to avoid rocket attacks on the planes. It looks like we will be leaving for Baghdad at 5:45 tomorrow morning, only a few hours away.
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Photography in Ali Al Salem is strictly forbidden, but I spent most of today shooting pictures without causing damage to Americaâs security. Some graffiti on the wall in the latrines caught my eye, so I went from stall to stall and photographed more than 60 toilet stalls. Ranging from profane and racist to funny, poetic philosophical, it was an interesting glimpse into the minds of the soldiers heading into, and out of Iraq.
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I can't sleep and am sitting in my cot trying to get some work done. I've developed an infection in my left eye and look like I have been beaten (the missing tooth probably fills in the image perfectly). I went to the shower trailer and put some antibiotic ointment on my eye but then got caught in a sandstorm on the way back to my tent. I now have an infected eye covered with sandy ointment. None of this is unusual.
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