War Photography, Meet Fashion Photography

  Model Laura Peterson's negative sandwiched with an image of devastation in Lebanon after the 34-Day Summer War. 

I have been widely criticized for commercializing photojournalism and war photography since I appeared in the Warner Brothers television show "In Harms Way." Since then I have been working hard on ways of making my work even more commercial. The bottom line is that for photojournalism to do any good, it must be seen — and seen by as large of an audience as possible.

Photojournalism has become a rigid and stagnant industry. It is obsessed with rules, hiding behind "ethics" in order to produce nothing but formulaic, generic press photography and generally forgetting about the fact that it is our job to use our ART to educate the world and bring about awareness. My personal mission is to go beyond what others are doing in hopes of creating works that are completely new and fresh, instead of mimicking the work and career paths of others.

Several years ago I went from covering the conflict in Gaza straight to New York to shoot Fashion Week. My entire time in Gaza I did not see one other photographer, yet at fashion week I was packed in with 50 or more shooters during runway shows. I was distressed by this in the beginning, but soon I began to see possibilities.

What if you could use the glamor and sex appeal of fashion and celebrity photography along with the messages in photojournalism? What if you could create works of art that would not only stun people visually, but also educate people about a subject that they may otherwise ignore or find too depressing to pay attention to?

Years ago when I did my work using film and darkrooms I fell in love with a process called "Negative Sandwiching" or "Sandwich Printing" or "Multiple Printing." This process involved actually placing two negatives on top of each other before exposing the image (alternately you could expose using one negative and then again with a second). The same process can be done digitally now with much more accuracy and detail.  

I would like to announce that I am beginning to take my career in a new direction. I am not now, nor will I ever give up photojournalism, but it is time to go far beyond the limits of the profession.

Six months ago I began shooting models and celebrities to work on creating composite images of beauty, sex and fame mixed with conflict, crisis and disasters. I am in the process of making a book as well as an international exhibition of this work. All of the models and celebrities involved in this project have donated their time, as have I, and the proceeds from this project will benefit refugees of conflict.

Comments

[g.d. miller]

To blend expression from our inner selfs with our impression of the public is a difficult task for any photojournalist. There must be a set of ethical rules if for no other reason but to ask for "public trust".

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Very sad little fellow aren't you.......

[Matt Fitt]

"Very sad little fellow aren't you..."

I think not.

"Sad little fellows" are hateful, bitter and envious. They post their poisonous, juvenile comments anonymously. They make up temporary google accounts because they're too cowardly to speak openly, in their own voice.

And your two separate posts, an hour apart. Is your life so pathetic and empty that THIS is how you spend your hours?

What a waste.

Gotta go, now. More photos to edit, more website to build. Trying to improve myself and my work, while bringing more beauty into the world. Perhaps you should try it? ;~o

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Ahh, you also do multiple postings under different names.

Very clever of you.

Just proves my point.

[Sage Lewis]

Your philosophy is spot on here, Zoriah. You are onto something huge here. The more yelling and gnashing of teeth you hear, the more you'll know you are on the right track.

[jeremy moore]

awesome idea, i hope you are hugely sucessful with. best of luck, jeremy

[Ariel Camilo]

In your attempt to "commercialize" photojournalism I hope you dont sacrifice the signature abstractness and SUBSTANCE of your work just to spoon-feed the lazy masses. Dont change...too much.

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...please.

[g.d. miller]

To 'www.google...' I'm g.d.miller, I'm not Zoriah. If you read my comment carefully it should be clear that we are not the same person. The name miller is as common as jones or smith, at least here in pennsylvania where I'm based. Some of you people are so wrapped up in your own esteemed concerns, you think with the minds of kids on the playground during elementary school recess. For the record my name is Gary Dwight Miller, I don't know Zoriah, I hopefully don't know you 'www.google???'.

[sarah]

While it is important to not be kept in an "ethical box", ethics can never be thrown out the window. I applaud the fact that you are pushing the boundaries. But I think that it all comes down to the reason you're doing this. Like was stated, photojournalism was meant to be something that is seen, and the more people the better. However what is the point of your photography? The answer of this question is what I believe photographers and photojournalists should be judged on. I personally think this picture is legit, and I love your style. But what is the purpose? Again, I love that you are thinking outside the box, doing new things, pushing boundaries.

[Smith]

While I do believe in these "rules" and "ethics" that you have mentioned, and feel that they should always be upheld in journalism, I am looking forward to seeing what this transition will bring in your work.
I found it interesting that you mentioned the difference you saw in photographic coverage in your travels to Gaza and then to New York Fashion Week. It seems like there is an off-balance in the world of journalism and definitely in photojournalism.
It may be easier, better pleasing to the eye, and safer to cover the entertaining yet non-impactful things in life like fashion week, but shouldn't our focus be more on the human life and the images that could have bee captured in Gaza?
I applaud you for not being afraid or fearing for your image and being able to go where we need journalist to be.

[Mike Gordon]

This could work and work well. It could be a great way to introduce the apolitical of the E! world to what happens in the rest of the world. Good luck. And if this show comes to Milwaukee or Chicago I need to know about it!

[Ashley Guerriero]

Zoriah, I am currently a photojournalism student in California and I know I still have much to learn in the field, however, while I do agree that for photojournalism to do any good is for it to be seen by a large audience, I can’t help but be disgusted by your thought that you must turn photojournalism into Art. Any form of journalism is supposed to truthful, not masked over with images of pretty girls to get ones attention. As a photojournalist, it is not our responsibility to use ART to educate and bring awareness, but to use our skills, talents, and raw truth to do such things. And if you believe that art is the only way and you till leave you journalistic instincts behind, then stop referring to yourself as a photojournalist and consider yourself an artist. I do not know what you hope to accomplish by combining sex and glamour with photojournalistic images of death and destruction, especially if they continue to turn out like the image you have posted above. Yes, the girl is very pretty and the photo and editing style is captivating, but it does not tell the story of what has happened in Lebanon. Photojournalism is about telling stories, not about producing pretty images to woo people over. Zoriah, you are a wonderful photographer and have talents in editing I can only dream of once containing, but I can’t help but say I am disgusted about your new career path.

[CRS]

I agree with a few points that Ashley shared - mainly that it is the responsibility of journalists to accurately record occasions and sentiments that may lack in pulp. However, I do appreciate your intentions of reaching a wider audience with a different approach. What you do is amazing, and putting yourself out on the line is a very difficult approach. However, I believe it would be a bit misleading to label such pieces as "photojournalism." It is fair as a graphic designer to do such things, but not a journalist of any kind. Manipulation is a lie. I do not mean to discourage you in any way, because I believe that you have a great amount of influence that you are exercising in mostly the right way. With a reputation and name like yours, I would just challenge you to stay true to your roots that got you where you are today.

[Lisa]

Zoriah,

I hope you push the boundaries, as the status quo has tried to box you in.
Your work is excellent and moving-- please pay no attention to the jealous. Take the good and drop everything else, as I'm sure you always have.

Your friend and supporter,

Lisa

[Simmadownow]

I love beauty and I like information but I feel conflicted by the mixture of sad devestation and beauty. I just don`t understand. I`m sorry.

[Farhaj]

Dear Zoriah

I believe I understand what your intentions are. If the masses eat 'Fashion', give them Photojournalism through 'Fashion'; but Sir., the raw appeal of your art dwindles alongside in this new endevor. I'll support you, but am worried you may lose out your credibility, recognition, and dare I say it, your 'self'.

Goodluck, come back soon.

-F

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[jeane]

As a Fashion Designer I had faced many problems regarding photography. My emphasis is undoubtedly on my collections and Photography is a crucial factor

[Summer Carr]

I dont see how people cant understand this concept when beaty is simply all around us combined with truth.

Take this more realistically as onlooking journalists you SHOULD understand that this is a demonstration of a creative artistic branch combined with journalism and an open mind. If you knew what journalism was about you would be out of your confined boxes and furthering your career.

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